Dishwasher Drain Pump Replacement: Cost + DIY Guide (2026)
Video guide
Video: “Dishwasher Drain Pump Replacement” by RepairClinic
Replacing a dishwasher drain pump is a 60 to 90 minute job that requires basic tools and costs $70 to $80 for the part on Whirlpool-family brands. Most homeowners can do this themselves. But before ordering the part, verify the pump is actually the problem: a clogged filter or blocked hose causes identical symptoms for $0. This guide covers how to test the pump before you replace it, then walks through the full replacement procedure with part numbers by brand.
For an overview of all drain components and their roles, see the Dishwasher Drain Components: Parts Guide (2026).
Quick answer
A dishwasher drain pump should be replaced when:
- The pump motor tests open circuit (infinite ohms) on a multimeter
- The pump runs continuously with no water movement (impeller broken off shaft)
- The pump makes a grinding or squealing noise during the drain phase but water doesn’t exit
- The pump is confirmed functional but impeller is cracked or chipped (rare, usually debris-caused)
Don’t replace the pump until you have:
- Cleaned the filter (5 minutes, costs nothing)
- Confirmed the drain hose isn’t kinked or blocked
- Confirmed the garbage disposal knockout plug is removed (new installs)
- Removed any debris from the pump impeller well
We’ve seen dozens of cases where a $70 pump was ordered and installed. The real problem was a twist tie jammed in the impeller. Test first.
What this component does and how it fails
A pump in your drain system, typically made by A.O. Smith, operates via an electric motor featuring a spinning impeller, essentially a fan blade, that generates negative pressure, effectively pulling water from the tub and sending it through the hose to disposal. This process repeats at the end of each cycle for about 90 to 120 seconds, during which time you’ll observe the pump running.
Pay attention.
How it fails:
- Motor failure: The motor windings burn out, usually from running dry against a debris blockage. The pump makes no sound during the drain phase.
- Impeller failure: The plastic impeller cracks or breaks, often from a piece of glass or hard debris passing through. The pump motor runs (you hear it) but moves no water.
- Seal failure: The pump shaft seal fails and water enters the motor housing. This causes intermittent electrical failure and water leaks under the unit.
- Capacitor failure: On some models, a starting capacitor assists the motor. When it fails, the pump hums but doesn’t spin.
Most pump failures in dishwashers under 10 years old are preventable: regular filter cleaning removes the debris that accelerates impeller and motor wear.
See Dishwasher Drain Pump Not Working? How to Test + Replace (2026) for in-depth diagnosis before committing to replacement.
How to test it (tools + 10 min)
You need a multimeter and access to the pump wiring. This test takes 10 minutes and confirms whether the motor is dead before you spend $70 on a new pump.
Tools: Multimeter, Phillips screwdriver, flashlight
Test 1: Listen test (30 seconds, no tools) Start a wash cycle and let it run to the drain phase, then kneel beside the dishwasher and listen; a healthy pump makes a consistent hum/whir for 90 to 120 seconds. If there’s no sound, check if the motor is dead or not receiving power. A loud grinding or squealing noise suggests debris in the impeller or damage to the impeller itself.
Test 2: Impeller inspection (5 min) Remove the lower rack and filter assembly initially. Employ a flashlight to scrutinize the pump well at the base of the filter for foreign particles such as glass, fruit pits, twist ties, or plastic remnants. If any are found, employ needle-nose pliers to extract them; then replace the filter and evaluate the pump’s operation.
Should no debris be visible yet the pump persists in failing to start, proceed with a motor test. This may entail verifying connections, confirming that the voltage is correct, and checking if the breakers have tripped. Make sure your multimeter is calibrated for measuring resistance or continuity should you suspect problems with the motor winding or capacitor.
Test 3: Multimeter resistance test (10 min) Disconnect power at the circuit breaker first to ensure safety when working on electrical components. Pull the dishwasher out 6 to 12 inches from the cabinet for easy access. Next, remove the bottom kick panel to reach the pump wiring harness. Carefully disconnect the pump’s wiring connector, then set your multimeter to resistance (ohms) mode and test across both pump motor terminals. A healthy motor should display a resistance between 5 and 30 ohms, indicating intact coils; infinite or zero readings suggest an open circuit or burned-out coil. If the motor passes this test yet the pump still malfunctions, suspect the capacitor or start relay as potential issues.
Step-by-step replacement (30-60 min)
Tools: Phillips screwdriver, nut driver or socket set (1/4” and 5/16”), pliers, towels, bucket, flashlight
Time: 60 to 90 mins for a rookie, but a seasoned pro can nail it in 30 to 45.
Make sure your pump is rated at least 120 PSI; anything less and you might be dealing with subpar performance. Ensure the tank’s gauge indicates around 80 psi when full, or you’re looking at wasted energy and potentially lower pressure.
If you’ve got a Wiilow model, it’s critical to check that its motor can handle the load without tripping your breaker; these are known for putting some serious strain on electrical circuits.
You’ll want to drain any remaining water from the pump and storage tank before starting. A plugged drain or stopped-up line can cause havoc, so clear those out with a plunger if necessary.
After that, detach the hose connections and shut off the main water supply to avoid flooding your basement. A faulty check valve could be causing your issues, but this step often resolves itself once you prime the system correctly.
Step 1: Prep the work area (5 min) Turn off power at the circuit breaker first for safety, then close the water supply valve beneath the sink. Open the dishwasher and slide out the lower rack. For residual liquid, grab a measuring cup and extract standing water; apply towels to mop up any lingering moisture.
Step 2: Disconnect the drain hose (10 min) First, place a towel and a shallow bucket underneath the sink where the drain hose connects to ensure no water spills out. Next, loosen the hose clamp at the disposal or standpipe connection to allow the hose to be removed easily; have the bucket ready to catch any residual water that might come loose once the hose is freed.
Step 3: Access the pump (10 min) First, remove the bottom kick panel by unscrewing two screws on most models. Next, locate the pump assembly, which is typically the cylindrical component at the base of the tub and accessible from underneath on most dishwashers. Once you have located it, if your model requires it, tilt the dishwasher on its back for better access; lay down a moving blanket to protect the door.
Step 4: Disconnect the old pump (10 min) Disconnect the electrical connector by pressing its tab and pulling it off. Loosen the clamp securing the泵的连接软管到内部排水软管。然后，逆时针旋转泵约四分之一圈以与安装支架脱开。最后，轻轻向下拉泵以将其移除。
Step 5: Install the new pump (10 min) Compare the old and new pumps; inlet ports, outlet ports, and mounting tabs must match. Place the new pump in the bracket, rotating clockwise until it locks. Reattach the internal hose and secure with the clamp. Finish by reconnecting the electrical connector to ensure a proper click.
Step 6: Reconnect and test (15 min) First, reconnect the external drain hose under the sink and tighten the clamp securely. Next, restore power by resetting the circuit breaker. Then, turn on the water supply and run a short wash cycle (quick wash, no dishes). After that, watch for water to begin draining at the end of the cycle. Finally, check under the unit for any signs of water leaks from the pump connections.
See also How to Replace a Dishwasher Drain Hose (Step-by-Step, 2026) if the drain hose needs replacement at the same time (often worth doing if the hose is over 8 years old).
Part numbers and prices by brand
| Brand | Drain pump part number | Approximate part cost |
|---|---|---|
| Whirlpool | W10876537 | $70.66 |
| Maytag | W10876537 | $70.66 |
| KitchenAid | W10876537 | $70.66 |
| Kenmore | W10876537 | $70.66 |
| Amana | W10876537 | $70.66 |
| Samsung | DD31-00005A | $45-$75 |
| LG | 5859EA1004F | $55-$85 |
| Bosch | 00611316 | $75-$110 |
| GE | WD26X10013 | $60-$90 |
| Frigidaire | 154474001 | $50-$80 |
| Miele | Varies by model | $120-$180 |
The W10876537 covers Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Kenmore, Amana, and Jenn-Air across multiple years. It has a 4.4-out-of-5 customer rating from appliance parts reviewers and a typical DIY-installed lifespan of 3 to 5 years.
Verify compatibility with your specific model number before ordering. RepairClinic.com and AppliancePartsPros.com both have compatibility search tools. Input your model number (on the label inside the door) to confirm the correct part.
Common one.
DIY vs. pro cost comparison
| Approach | Part cost | Labor | Total | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DIY (Whirlpool-family) | $70.66 | $0 | ~$71 | Comfortable with appliance repair |
| DIY (other brands) | $45-$180 | $0 | $45-$180 | Comfortable with appliance repair |
| Professional (Whirlpool) | $70.66 | $150-$300 | $220-$370 | Prefer no DIY |
| Professional (all brands) | $45-$180 | $150-$300 | $195-$480 | Prefer no DIY |
You’ll want to check if your dishwasher’s pump fails; a common issue trips the breaker or loses prime, requiring replacement. In 2026 Fixr data, repairs run from $150 to $400 for labor and parts combined, with technicians charging $50 to $100 per hour, averaging one to two hours on repair tasks.
For a dishwasher older than ten years, replacement trumps repair. Components like the door gasket, spray arms, and control board falter around that mark. Spending $70 on a pump in a machine riddled with $300 of deferred maintenance isn’t prudent. Modern dishwashers begin at $400 with warranties stretching one to three years. For a thorough repair-versus-replace analysis, review the Dishwasher Check Valve: Testing + Replacement Guide (2026) or the Why Is My Dishwasher Not Draining? Quick Fixes (2026) for additional cost insights.
For pump-running-but-not-draining symptoms specifically, see Dishwasher Pump Runs But Won’t Drain? Fixes (2026).
Frequently asked questions
How do I know if my dishwasher drain pump is bad?
A bad drain pump shows one of three patterns: (1) complete silence during the drain phase when the pump should be running, indicating motor failure; (2) loud grinding or squealing during the drain phase with no water movement, indicating a jammed or broken impeller. Or (3) the pump runs normally but water very slowly exits the tub, indicating an impeller partially blocked by debris. Confirm with a multimeter resistance test: a healthy pump motor reads 5 to 30 ohms.
How long does dishwasher drain pump replacement take?
Replacing a pump for the first time will likely take around an hour, but with practice, subsequent jobs should be completed within 30 to 45 minutes. Professionals can handle such tasks in about the same timeframe, incorporating diagnostic steps as well. You’ll want to check if the A.O. Smith model SPC-120 pump has failed, look for it failing to start or tripping the circuit breaker. Ensure the discharge check valve is free of blockage; a plugged valve can prevent prime and extend repair time by up to 20 minutes. Always ensure the system runs dry after servicing to avoid any leaks or pressure build-up issues.
What is the most common drain pump part number for Whirlpool-family dishwashers?
When replacing the Whirlpool W10876537 drain pump on your Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Kenmore, Kenmore Elite, Amana, or Jenn-Air dishwasher, ensure you check the part number against your specific model first. This 4.4-star rated pump at $70.66 is widely used but always confirm its compatibility to avoid errors.
Can I replace a dishwasher drain pump without removing the dishwasher?
On most models, the drain pump is accessible from underneath after removing the bottom kick panel, without fully removing the dishwasher from the cabinet. Some models require tilting the unit to its back for better pump access. Fully removing the dishwasher from the cabinet is needed only if the pump is mounted inside the tub floor (uncommon) or if the drain hose routing prevents access without pulling the unit out.
Is it worth replacing a dishwasher pump on a 10-year-old machine?
Repairing a dishwasher within its first decade can often save you money compared to buying new. A machine at eight years isn’t yet past the golden repair zone, provided it doesn’t show any immediate faults. By ten or eleven years in, consider repair only if everything else is working well and no additional issues are imminent. According to 2026 estimates, fixing a dishwasher that’s half its original value makes financial sense. A standard new model typically starts at $400 and tops out around $700. Replacing a pump, a crucial component, can cost between $220 and $370 professionally, often well below the 50% mark for many units in this age bracket. By the time you hit twelve years or more, other parts will likely be showing signs of wear, pushing the balance toward replacement rather than repair.